Abstract Since 1847, Cartier has gained a pivotal position in the history of the royal jewels of the royal family and nobles. Almost all the kings of the country have made jewelry to Cartier, the King of England "Edward III" (Edward VI...
From 1847 to the present, Cartier has gained a pivotal position in the history of the royal jewels of the royal family and nobles. Almost all the kings of the country have made jewelry to Cartier, and the British King Edward VII described Cartier as "The jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers". In a recent interview, Xavier Gargat, Director of Cartier's Fine Jewelry Workshop, shared with us the unique details of the design and production of High Jewelry by jewelers in the High Jewelry Workshop.
A : As a jeweler, the essence of our work is to present the "beauty" of jewelry. In short, the star is the protagonist in the movie. In the work of the high-end jewellery workshop, the stars are the precious gems.
Q : How many jewelers are there in the Cartier High Jewelry Workshop? What is their division of labor?
A : We have 36 fascinating jewelers. The workshop is an open environment. Everyone can see what other people are doing and can communicate and communicate at any time – this is crucial for jewelers. Because it takes more than 10 years to train a jeweler, they must constantly accumulate experience and constantly observe and learn the skills of others.
We have highly skilled craftsmen. For example, there are 5 "jewel inlays" dedicated to the largest and most precious gemstones, 5 "buffers" to finish the metal polishing of jewelry, and 2 "dewax casters" are the most complicated. The three-dimensional wax mold and mold, the "Cutting Master" cuts the precious gemstones, making the gems the most beautiful and moving essence.
Q : Can you briefly describe what a jeweler's workbench looks like?
A : This photo shows a standard workbench for a jewelry craftsman. You can see that the workbench is clean and tidy. However, this is not the case. In fact, the workbench of a jewellery craftsman is always messy, because he is always looking for the most suitable tool, he needs to put all kinds of tools on the desktop, and even create special tools himself. .
Jewelry craftsmen often have a lot of dust on their desks—platinum powder, gold powder, and the crumbs that are produced when processing jewels. These debris are collected into the leather pockets under the workbench. The precious metals we collect from the jeweler's table every year. The weight of the chips is more than 1kg.
However, each jeweler has some general-purpose tools, such as electric lights, electric drills, oxygen blowers, handcuffs, hammers, pliers, needles, saws and saw blades.
Q : How was the idea of ​​a fine jewellery born?
A : At Cartier's high-end jewellery workshop, gems are the core. In other words, we first purchase gems, then give the gems to the designer, and let the designers design the jewels that best reflect the beauty of the jewel.
On the other hand, we need to be creative when we purchase gems. We buy a jewel not only because of its preciousness, but more importantly, considering the aesthetic value of this jewel, considering that it can be done with this jewel. What is the design, this is a very important standard.
Q : After the design draft is completed? What are the steps for making a whole piece of jewelry?
A : Take this necklace as an example. We first make the components of the jewelry, such as the metal base of the gemstone. Generally, the base of an independent gemstone takes 8 hours of production time. After the base is completed, we arrange the base and the gemstone. On a waxed wooden mannequin, determine the location of each part and preview the effect of the jewelry when it is finished.
Subsequently, we removed the gemstone from the base, left the base on the wax layer, poured the plaster, and fixed the base completely on the plaster. Depending on the position of the base on the plaster, the jeweler then makes the connecting metal pieces that connect each of the bases.
After the joints are made, connect the "gem base" with the joints, so that the structure of the whole gemstone is completed, and it is given to the polisher for polishing. Finally, the inlay is inlaid by the inlay.
Q : How to make more three-dimensional jewelry? For example, the image of a little leopard?
A : Three-dimensional jewellery has gradually become popular since the 1940s. When making this kind of jewellery, we use a process called "dewaxing casting method".
First, the jeweler used a soft wax to engrave the model of the jewel, draw a line on the wax pattern, drill holes to determine the position of the process such as inlay and enamel, and finish the wax pattern to the "dewaxing caster" to cast the design. Precious metal parts.
The inlay step is then completed by the gem inlay, and the jeweler combines the entire piece for final polishing and polishing.
Q : Does the High Jewelry Workshop have its own independent gem procurement team? How do they make gem purchases?
A : Our gem procurement team and workshops are independent of each other. There are four divisions in Cartier's Jewelry Gem Purchasing Department: one division is responsible for purchasing large diamonds above 1 carat, and one distribution is responsible for purchasing small diamonds below 1 carat. The other two parts are responsible for the purchase of colored gemstones. It is also a large-scale colored gemstone with a price of more than 1 carat. A small gemstone of 1 carat or less is purchased by one branch.
To put it simply, the gemstones above 1 carat are based on the strategy of purchasing after the purchase, while the small gemstones below 1 carat are often purchased according to the needs of the jewelry design.
The crown of platinum, by Cartier, was worn by Grace Kelly of Monaco in 1948. It is set with three ruby ​​beads and the crown is embellished with small diamonds.
A garland-style scroll-style crown, by Cartier, was designed in 1910 with a Garland Style from the early 20th century.
Bird of Paradise Brooch, by Cartier, is 20.20cm high in 1948 and weighs 156.45 grams. It combines almost all the inlay techniques with different cut diamonds.
A garland-style scroll-style crown, by Cartier, was designed in 1910 with a Garland Style from the early 20th century.
Bird of Paradise Brooch, by Cartier, is 20.20cm high in 1948 and weighs 156.45 grams. It combines almost all the inlay techniques with different cut diamonds.
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